I figured it might have been the bridge rectifier due to DC voltage being all over. KPS-10A i ended up buying another just to voltage check etc. you would have to totally turn off the appliance you are applying power to in order to let R3 bleed the required startup current into Q2 to make it turn on Q1 and thus head towards regulation.įailing this then it would be a case of checking for voltages around Q1 and Q2 that feed the pass transistors to try and isolate a faulty component.Įven a few questions to amateurs and friends did not get the solution. I still think fuse F2 is the most likely reason it isn't working but the other option is that it probably isn't going to be able to power anything that draws current all the time. it will end up with a very small output voltage and won't be able to make Q1 and Q2 conduct enought to kickstart the circuit towards regulation. It looks like it does this via R3 (56R) and this provides the initial source that allows Q2 to initially conduct.īut R3 can only supply limited current (eg ballpark <150mA) during the startup phase so if there is anything connected to the PSU that draws a residual current then I don't think the PSU can start up. The other aspect of the PS30 is that it has to be able to start up correctly before it can reach regulation.
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